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Ramblings with Clare Balding
Holiday Hikes: La Axarquía, Spain – The Walk of the Low Axarquía First broadcast on BBC Radio 4, 30 August 2002 Companions: Sandra Costello, Rosa Perico and Inge Teasdale |
Clare Balding was in safe hands when she went walking north-east of Málaga, with three women who live and work in the village of Cómpeta in the area called La Axarquía. Sandra Costello and Inge Teasdale are both keen walkers. Over the years they have planned, coordinated and guided walks for visitors staying in the village. Rosa Perico is one of 11 children and, apart from a few years in Scotland, has lived in the village all her life. For her, rambling for pleasure is a rather strange pastime. In her family walking is a means of getting to work in the local fields and farms. But she was happy to join the group to talk about life in her corner of Andalucia.
The walk is featured in the book Walking in Andalucia (details below), although there were diversions from the route because the river was too swollen to cross after recent storms. The walk begins in Cómpeta in the main square, Plaza de Almijara. The area is famous for its wine and the walk goes through vineyards as well as olive groves and citrus orchards. On the way it passes through two other pretty white villages: Archez, with its beautiful 13th-century minaret, and Canillas. There is a terrific panoramic view from the Ermita de Santa Ana at the top of Canillas. If you time your walk right you can stop in one of the villages for a drink and some tapas. The route back to Cómpeta is through delightful irrigated terraces.
| Map: | 1:50000 Cartografía Militar de España series, sheet 18-43 (1040): Zafarraya. |
| Distance: | 8-9 km (5-6 miles); allow 4 to 5 hours with stops. |
| Terrain: | A mixture of path and track and some tarmac; some short climbs; the walk crosses the river if it is not too deep. |
| Suitable for: | The reasonably fit with some walking experience. |
| Start/parking: | Plaza de Almijara, Cómpeta, grid reference 134771. |
| Special note: | It is very important to take plenty of water and protection from the weather (sun and rain). |
| Public transport: | Buses run along the coast. There are two or three a day each way between Torre del Mar (on the coast) and Cómpeta. |
| Maps: | Cartografía Militar de España (Military Survey) maps of Spain can be obtained from Stanfords. If not in stock, Stanfords can order, but they will take a couple of months to arrive. Stanfords 12-14 Long Acre, London WC2E 9LP Tel: 020 7836 0189 Fax: 020 7836 0189 E-mail: sales@stanfords.co.uk Website: www.stanfords.co.uk |
| Walking in Andalucia: | Many companies now organise walking holidays in
Andalucia. If you are walking independently it is advisable to have a map and/or a walking guidebook
or leaflet. The usual advice for walking in the UK applies, but it is important to take plenty of
water as well as extra clothing, protection from the sun and snacks. Signs saying Coto or Coto privado de caza refer to where hunting is permitted in season. They do not mean you are walking on private property. Ganado bravo designates an area where you could find a bull. |
| LINKS: | |
| Marco Polo | Calle José Antonio 3, 29754 Cómpeta, Málaga, Spain Tel: 00 34 952 51 64 23 Website: marcopolocompeta.20m.com This shop (just off the main square) stocks local maps and books, including books on walking. |
| Sandra Costello | Casa La Piedra, Plazoleta 17, 29754 Cómpeta, Málaga, Spain Tel/Fax: 00 34 952 51 63 29 E-mail: casa@sandra.com Website: www.2sandra.com Sandra Costello offers self-catering accommodation and welcomes groups of walkers (minimum of two). She gives advice, coordinates and plans walks, and can organise transport and guides. |
| Oficina de Turismo | Pasaje de Chinitas 4, 29015 Málaga, Spain. Tel: 00 34 95 221 34 45 Fax: 00 34 95 222 94 21 E-mail: otmalaga@andalucia.org Website: www.andalucia.org |
| Oficina de Turismo | Puerta del Mar 2, 29780 Nerja, Málaga, Spain. Tel: 00 34 95 252 15 31 Fax: 00 34 95 252 62 87 E-mail: turismo@nerja.org Website: www.nerja.org Opening hours: Monday-Friday, 10am-2pm and 5.30-8.30pm (4.30-7.30pm in winter); Saturday 10am-1pm; closed Sunday. |
| BOOKS: | Guy Hunter-Watts, Walking in Andalucia
(Santana Books, 2000; ISBN 84-89954-14-3; www.santanabooks.com) Special Places to Stay: Spain (Alastair Sawday Publishing; ISBN 1-901970-16-7; www.sawdays.co.uk) |